Washer repair

 Last month I mentioned the demise of our AC and washing machine. I confirmed that the AC was dead and I was waiting on parts.

So the belt for the washing machine came through, $50 for the pair which is about right for two belts these days.

The aggravating thing about washing machines is that the belts live underneath. Here I've propped the washer up on blocks to ease access. You can see where one belt goes to the drum in the middle and another goes to the pump at the top right.

With the belt installed everything seemed to be working okay, the bearing for the drum is a little stiff but I figured we'd get a few months out of it. Right up until we hit the spin cycle and water sloshed over the drum. Pictured is the drum cover, it was nasty with buildup.

This is the seal that the cover rides on, it had a horrible skunge buildup. Fortunately some soapy water and a toothbrush took it right off.

Here its installed, you can just see the cover around the rim.

And with the top off because it still wouldn't seal. About now I was thinking that it was time for a new seal. I rolled up some towels and put them around the base of the washer to absorb the water from this wash. When the wash was done I found that the tub hadn't drained. Somewhere in all of this the pump had failed.

So thats it, I'm done. I was willing to buy belts, I was willing to buy a new seal (another $50) but I'm not willing to buy a new seal AND a new pump AND a new bearing in the transmission. That last one requires the whole drum to come out. My fear being that I'll ruin some 20+ year old plastics that aren't obtainable.

Today, with any luck, I'll pick up a Speed Queen TC5, the workhorse of the commercial washer world. It'll be way bigger than this apartment model and should last a good long time. Speed Queen washers (the TC5 in particular) are known for being repairable. Its about twice the price of a cheap washer but hopefully it'll be a good long term solution.

Sometimes stuff goes wrong

 Whew, what a week, and its only Tuesday.

Last week I taught 5am to 10am for the European market. Of the non-US class schedules we have its my favorite because it leaves the day mostly open. The downside is that I need to go to bed early so I can get up early. Thus I opted to head north and stay in Cushman house.

Work on Cushman house is progressing slowly but there has been progress. Expect an update on that soonish.

Anyway summer arrived while I was gone. We went from typical New England spring to the dog days over summer basically overnight and of course the big old AC unit in the house quit. I knew this was coming, the unit has been in the house the 20 years we've lived here. Further investigation shows that it's from 1983.

So Angie had to suffer through a week with temps in the 90's and no AC.

Then, the day before I came back the washing machine decided it didn't want to go into the spin cycle and instead would stink of burning rubber. Aww geez.

I decided the AC was, obviously, the one to tackle first.

Of course I started by just turning it on, it hums but doesn't do anything. The front plate comes off with just 2 screws. I don't know if this is daring or stupid but I reached in and gave the fan a spin and it came to life. Unfortunately if I turn it off and back on it won't stay running. Its due for replacement, I'm looking at mini-split heat pumps, with Prime day coming up I'm going to see if I can get some kind of a special deal there. The good news I suppose is that I can still use it if I need it.

Okay, well, moving on to the washing machine.

Another piece of equipment that came with the house so 20+ years old. This is actually a stacked washer/dryer but the basement is too short to have them stacked. Anyhow these old washers are pretty simple, there is a motor that drives a pair of belts and the issue is that the belt that spins the drum full of clothes is slipping. The larger question is "Is it just an old belt or is something wrong?" I dunno. I can spin all the pulleys and they seem fine. I can spin the drum but it spins hard. What I don't know is how hard it should be to spin. The belts are $50 so I just ordered them, they'll be here tomorrow and then we'll know more. If it works I'll make a more detailed post...

Learning about VW brake calipers

 The challenge in keeping up with the blog is remembering to take pictures of stuff so I have something to show you.

Remember our 2005 VW Golf TDI?

Pictured here at ChowdaQ in 2016 this is the car I've owned the longest. Actually it might be in the running for the vehicle I've owned the longest. I think I got it in 2015.

So the old Golf is hard on brakes, especially the rears. I've posted a bunch of times about doing brakes on that car. One of the things special about brakes on a newer VW is that the rear calipers need to be twisted as the piston retracts. An easy(ish) way to do that is with a tool like this:

And I've done it several times now, the tool quickly pays for itself and I don't think it was terribly expensive.

The problem is that every time I've done the brakes on this car I've ended up with terrible pedal feel and the parking brake didn't work well.

Recently the pedal started to pulse badly during braking so I knew it was time for yet another brake job. Fortunately the parts aren't too expensive so I ordered up new pads and rotors all around. At the same time I knew I'd have to address the parking brake which didn't work at all.

After finishing the brake job I knew I was in trouble, pedal feel was AWFUL. Pedal goes straight to the floor. I know what you're thinking "air in the lines" but I hadn't opened the system so where would the air have come from? Plus the parking brake didn't work at all.

So, since I'd never done it I figured I'd replace the parking brake cables. Not a terrible job and they're weren't too expensive. Sadly, after the job was done nothing had changed. So I decided to sleep on it for a couple nights.

Well, theres the problem. Sure, right. Let me explain...

What we're seeing here is the rear of the passenger side caliper. At the bottom left of the picture there is a pair of vice grips attached to the parking brake actuator. The actuator is fully extended in this picture, so its bottomed out but isn't causing the brake pad to contact the rotor.

When I retracted the piston I retracted it all the way so the new pads would clear. In doing so I've retracted the piston too much so the piston isn't moving enough to do its job. Disc brakes are self adjusting so eventually the piston would adjust itself but commonly the adjuster gets a little stuck. I could actually see that in the parking brake actuator, it didn't retract well. A little squirt of oil helped. I cycled the parking brake a couple hundred (no joke) times but it just wasn't adjusting, or at least not enough to matter.

Heres the fix, you're looking at the caliper standing on its side. The cube thing inside the caliper has little nubs on it to engage the piston. Normally to retract the piston you turn it clockwise while pushing it in. The other tool won't work for that since you need to turn counter-clockwise which would also retract the tool.

Here my thumb is pushing down on the cube thing while I turn it with a big screwdriver. It takes a lot of force but fortunately it only needs to move like 1/8 of a turn.

This was all terribly difficult to photograph so please excuse the terrible pictures. I wanted to get the calipers balanced so I set them so the pads just touch the rotor when the jaw is open about 1/4" which is just under half the travel. In retrospect I'd probably go a little smaller, maybe 3/16 or about 1/3 of the travel.

With all that done pedal feel is MUCH improved and the parking brake finally works as it should.

The state of MA requires a yearly safety inspection. The parking brake was keeping me from getting it. Annoyingly these days they give you a sticker for the month your previous sticker expired so although I had it inspected in May I got an April sticker. Oh well...

Something a little odd

 I've been spending a lot of my time working for the snowmobile club. I don't know if I've mentioned it much on here but a couple years ago I became president of the Coldbrook Snowmobile Club. It's one of those things I'd never really intended to do but I guess that describes my life...

Anyway, this time of year the club is busy grooming the snowmobile trails. This involves smoothing the snow out to make the ride less of a kidney buster. Left to their own devices the trails turn into a series of bumps that beat you and your machine to death.

So a couple weeks ago I was taking a machine south and came to a gate. This is not uncommon, the Army Corps of Engineers owns the land and put up gates to keep cars out. The problem here is that I couldn't open the lock on the gate. In the end I had to back the machine 500 yards to a place I could turn around. 

The machine in question is the club's 1989 Tucker Sno-Cat

Shown here passing another gate this thing is a pig to back up. After 5-ish years of running the machine I've finally gotten adequate at backing it up but its still a big challenge.

Buddy Ben called the Army Corps and asked them to fix the lock. They tried it and discovered they couldn't open it either so a couple days after that we cut the lock. I don't have a good picture of the  cutting or the aftermath but it was a challenge to cut because of its placement on the gate.

Of course the Army Corps wasn't too happy that we had cut their lock and "Destroyed Federal property" and they wanted us to go to a locksmith to get it replaced.

Well I know a little about locks so I retrieved the remains (in the top center of the pic above) and after soaking the lock itself in a variety of magic substances we managed to get it freed up and the lock core removed.

The lock core, is unusual, you can see it's listed as an MX13 which is a proprietary, access controlled core. Meaning they only sell them to locksmiths.

The lock is a common Masterlock Pro 6621. They run about $50 apiece with no core. I managed to score 4 of them on eBay for $50.

Once I had the lock in hand it was simplicity to transfer the lock core into the new lock. If you need to do this you have to open the lock and there is a little allen screw down in the hole that the moving side of the shackle goes into, then the core drops right out. Do be careful as theres a little shim thing on the end of the core, don't lose that. Fortunately it only goes together one way so as long as you have all the bits its no big deal to put back together.

Interestingly Army Corps wanted the old lock back but mostly because it was numbered on the plastic cover part.

I had to pass through that gate again a couple days ago and I'm pleased to report that the lock opened just fine. The problem the old lock had, I think, is caused by somebody using oil in it. Do not oil locks, the oil attracts goo that will seize the lock causing it to get stuck. The variety of solvents I ran into the old cylinder all ran out brown with chunks from the oil in the lock.

I use Houdini Lock lube which I think I got from Amazon, on all my locks. Its some kind of dry lubricant in what I think is an alcohol carrier. It smells like citrus which is nice and doesn't attract dirt.

Back again for another new year!

 I see I've done it again, no posts since September. It was a busy fall. One of my big problems is just failure to document. I need to remember to take pictures of stuff.

Anyway, when I was a kid on Christmas morning my mother would "make" cinnamon buns. I put make in quotes because she really just popped a Pillsbury can.

A few years ago, for Christmas, I snagged a can on cinnamon buns and was disappointed with the quality. You really can't go home again.

I can't remember if it was last year or the year before I decided to make my own dang cinnamon buns and fired up the bread maker. I changed up my usual dough with added sugar and they came out pretty good. 

For Christmas 2025 we kinda went crazy.

On Christmas eve we put together 3 bread doughs by hand. Looking back I don't appear to have written about making bread before which surprises the heck out of me. Anyway we threw together my standard bread recepie:

1C flour
1tsp salt
5/8tsp yeast
1 1/2C water

and let them rise overnight.

In the morning we rolled them out thin and made cinnamon rolls and 2 different styles of cinnamon bread:

I'd originally intended to just do cinnamon rolls but Angie had other ideas.

The thing on the left is a loaf of cinnamon bread, it's upside down which makes it look weird.

In retrospect the middle thing looks like a fox. They curl up like that to sleep. Next time we make one I'd put ears on it.

Overall as an experiment these were delicious and we'll be making more soon.

We did a thing!

I've talked some about fitness on here but it would appear I haven't written anything about Couch 2 5K. Normally its written as Couch25K or C25K for short. Its a program to help non-runners to learn to run. I've started the program many times and last year finally finished it. Unfortunately life got in the way as it does.

This year I restarted with renewed vigor because some friends invited us to participate in a Spartan Race with them. Spartan is just one of a stack of obstacle course runs. Specifically in Spartan you run a 5k with 22 obstacles. Heck to get to the start line you need to cross a 4 foot wall.

The obstacles include monkey bars, (nope, no chance) rings, (again, no chance) a spear throw, (harder than it seemed like it should be, I didn't even see anybody complete it successfully) and a bunch of wall climbs.

Its hard to say what my favorite obstacle was, I liked a couple of them, like the bag lift where you drag a weighted bag into the air with a rope that goes up over a pulley.

I also quite liked the A-frames pictured here. The netting in the distance in the picture is the outgoing run. By that point you've completed (or taken penalties) on a couple obstacles and are just finding your rhythm. The netting in the foreground is the very last thing before you leap over fire to finish.

Least favorite was the Atlas stone. The stone is really a concrete sphereoid (not really a sphere) about 75 pounds. I could pick it up but I couldn't then stand up. My friends had to help pick it up. Carrying it was no real issue but dang it was demoralizing not being able to pick it up.

Lesson learned, I need a lot more upper body strength and especially grip strength.

The joke is that you spend $100+ to punish yourself and get a medal and a t-shirt.

Another lesson I learned is that I didn't need the hydration pack. It was just one more thing to drag around. We were only out for 2 hours and there was water available. I'm not sure I really even needed a snack although I was starving and thirsty when we finished.

10 years ago I would never have considered such a thing but now we're already planning for next year. I'll try to update on training progress, I've got some ideas. We finished in 2:06, the goal for next year is to get under 2 hours. If I can get my mile run under 10 minutes we'll be pretty much there...

The Great Northern Estate Update Phase 2

So at the end of the last post we were up to summer 2024 and nearly the end of phase 1. You might think this post would be about ending phase 1 but that would include finishing the downstairs floors. If that happened the floor in the living room would get ruined by the work upstairs so we'll pause phase 1 for now.

Phase 2 begins upstairs. As bought the house had 4 bedrooms upstairs. With the removal of the stairway to nowhere three of those bedrooms are all in a line, which is no fun. That northern bedroom was really small and there was only one bathroom in the house so why not turn that little bedroom into an upstairs bathroom and a walk in closet.

The original plan had it as a half bath but Angie and I pushed for a shower and I'm glad we did. It essentially makes the upstairs a little apartment. Its nice to not have to traipse through the kitchen to take a shower.

Bathroom on the left, walk in closet on the right. Well, it was supposed to be a closet. My parents wanted a little bed in there, so for now we're using it as a bedroom.

With the upstairs bathroom and closet finished the guys moved on to the master bedroom. This didn't require a whole lot, new trim and better paint. Electric and insulation had been done by one of the Cushman brothers at some point in the past.

The floor in the master bedroom has been stripped but not refinished. Unfortunately its had a lot of traffic since the finish was taken off so when we do the rest of the floors this one will need to be sanded too but fortunately it'll just be a quick sand to take off the wear. I'm tentatively planning on refinishing the floor in the little bedroom and the master bedroom last summer but that will depend on replacing the windows in the master bedroom.

Actually the big holdup right now is the fact that we've used the house all summer. The guys really only get access from late November through mid-May. I think they had planned to work into the summer but my parents are much more comfortable in the house than the camp, the indoor bathroom being an important feature.

At some point last winter the roof leaked a little around the chimney into the downstairs bathroom. The guys gooped up the joint which stopped the leak but that meant we needed to shift focus and get a new roof.

This will be a standing seam metal roof but we opted for an inch of foam insulation. There isn't much insulation in the roof of the house. We intend to add more but there is only so much you can do so this will help.

I left before the metal started going on, it should be done by now.

Technically the roof is phase 3 but this is one of those things we didn't feel comfortable putting off. It'd be stupid to spend all that money on the inside to have it ruined by a leaky roof. Fortunately this kind of investment is once in a lifetime, I should never have to mess with the roof again.